THIS IS THE SNAP that my bearer would insist on looking at sidewards in spite of my demonstrating that if he looked at it right way up he would see that it is his Big White Chief. The snap was taken in Shalimar Gardens and I was posed by John so that I should have a background of snow-capped mountains. He was very apologetic when he saw the results. Whenever we went on a long shikara ride I invariably removed my shoes and socks (my feet are still golden brown) and I didn’t bother to put them on again when we went round the gardens.

Ralph on wall

On Leave in KashmirPhoto 7: Ralph on wall